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Amalfi is the quieter heart of the coast that carries its name. The Duomo rises above a small piazza where locals still drink espresso in the morning, and the backstreets open into lemon gardens and old paper mills that have been running since the Middle Ages. Pick up a sfogliatella warm from the bakery, or sit down for anchovy pasta at a harbour-side table while the afternoon slows down around you. From the water, the town looks like a painting — colourful facades stacked into the hillside, framed by cliffs and lemon terraces. Slip into the Grotta dello Smeraldo nearby, where sunlight turns an underground cave emerald green, or find a quiet inlet along the cliffs for a swim with no one else around. Amalfi has the kind of charm that doesn't try too hard — it just is.






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