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Amalfi is the quieter heart of the coast that carries its name. The Duomo rises above a small piazza where locals still drink espresso in the morning, and the backstreets open into lemon gardens and old paper mills running since the Middle Ages. From the water the town looks like a painting — colourful facades stacked into the hillside, framed by cliffs and lemon terraces. Slip into the Grotta dello Smeraldo nearby, where sunlight turns an underground cave emerald green, or find a quiet inlet along the cliffs for a swim with no one else around — and a short sail puts Positano, Ravello, and Capri within an easy day. The food is the reason to stay late — anchovy pasta at a harbour table, sfogliatella warm from the bakery, limoncello made from the cliff-side groves above. Season April through October; June and September dodge August crowds.






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